Corsetmakers Course II

I’ve decided to make 2 complete corsets. Now that I think I am on the right track, I am making another mockup, but this will be a permanent usable corset… A trial run, really. I dyed some white cotton duck to muddy brown which will be the “fashion fabric” of this corset. I’m using gold grommets and some orange poly cotton to line the corset. I will do external boning channels, but I don’t know yet how.

Last night I ordered a 12 inch busk and some extra grommets from Richard the Thread. Things I liked and didn’t like about this company:

Disliked:

  • They don’t have all busk sizes in every color
  • $35 minimum purchase
  • Shipping: shipping costs aren’t part of checkout, you have to wait until it is shipped and pay whatever the cost of shipping is.

Liked:

  • Grommets and busks  are a good price
  • awesome store and lots of stuff I want

Once my busk comes in, I can do a fitting. I think I need to add a gore to the hips — I chose to go with a smaller hip size (6) in order to use the gores in the hips. I will probably need a second gore.

Speaking of gores, I came up with a way to stitch my gores in that looks great and is durable. First I drew the seam allowance on the wrong side of the gore. When I reached the point where the two seam allowances intersect, I drew a straight line splitting the bottom space in half. I then stitched over these lines, from widest part to narrowest, including the line at the bottom. This way, the stitching didn’t just end at the tip unsecured.
To keep myself on track, I’ve made a list of the major steps of the process:
  1. Take measurements
  2. Do complicated math to calculate circumference of pattern
  3. Mark & measure waist (compare to above measurements & math)
  4. Mark & measure bustline
  5. Mark & measure hips
  6. Measure length of pattern, adjust if needed
  7. Make toile
  8. Fitting and adjustments
  9. Make corset
  10. Sew boning channels and waist tape
  11. Finishing touches

Foundation Revealed: The Corset Maker's Companion

Corsetmakers Course

With my new subscription to Foundations Revealed, I am following the corsetmaker’s course to construct Laughing Moon #100 Silverado corset. I plan to do a very detailed blog of the process for future reference, though many of the steps that are in depth on FR will just be mentioned.

I initially decided to use the Dore pattern, but Farthingales’ profile view decided it for me – I want more of a cupped breast for the FR challenge ideas that I am pursuing.

The Silverado course starts with taking exact measurements of your body and comparing them with the actual measurements of the pattern pieces. I put on my best fitting bra and made sure the straps were evenly supporting my boobs. I carefully measured in front of a floor length mirror and my resulting sizes gave me a 14 bust, 18 waist and 12 hips. I followed the recommended 75 mm reduction at the waist and 50 mm everywhere else, as well as the 15 mm seam allowance listed on the pattern, as well as a 2 inch gap in the lacing.

I cut the above sizes out of the (photocopied) pattern and sewed mockup number 1.

Made some changes, tried larger cups, went back to smaller cups, added a gore to the hips, and moved the gore to between pieces 13 and 14. My pattern pieces now look like this:

My cotton duck mockup is practically disintegrating around the edges from being handled, so I will cut and sew one more mockup, which will be used to flatline the lining of the real thing. I haven’t picked out a fabric to make it out of, but I’m considering several fabrics for the exterior, then I will pick out a pretty matching lining.

Foundation Revealed: The Corset Maker's Companion